91 Magazine’s 10th Issue

91 Magazine September 2014

It’s hard to believe it’s September already, but indeed it is (and over halfway through, no less) and with it brings a new issue of one of my favourite reads, 91 Magazine. The 10th edition of the magazine is crammed, as usual, with inspirational home tours, first-class photography and must-do DIY projects – in fact, the adorable embroidered Liberty fabric napkins might just be one of my favourite-ever craft projects to be featured in 91 Magazine, but then I’m always a sucker for anything involving Liberty fabrics.

If, like me, you’re a Scandi-style devotee, you can feed your Scandimania by checking out the tour of a gorgeous home in Norway, while those with a penchant for all things retro will love the snaps of a beautifully converted Victorian school building in Leeds. There are also a few fab ideas for getting creative with spray paint.

If you’re a creative business owner looking to expand your venture, my feature on growing an independent business will hopefully prove useful, with invaluable advice from three successful homeware designers – Gillian Kyle, who runs an eponymous brand stocked in John Lewis and Liberty; Camilla, founder and designer of Butterscotch & Beesting homewares; and Margarita Lorenzo, who runs a boutique brand of handmade homewares called Chocolate Creative.

You can take a peek at a preview of the 10th edition on issuu, or go right on ahead and subscribe on Magzter for just £7 a year (go on, you know you want to).

91 Magazine91 Magazine91 Magazine91 Magazine

Exploring Bath’s Museums

One of my favourite things to do on a rainy day (aside from sewing and watching my way through the Netflix catalogue in my pjs, obviously) is visiting a museum or two. So on the rather grey and wet Bank Holiday Monday last week I headed to Bath to have a look around the Bath Fashion Museum, where there were no less than three superb exhibitions on show that I’ve been wanting to see for a while.

Our first stop was the Great War in Costume exhibit, focusing on the dramatic changes to women’s lives and roles that took place during World War I. For the first time, women were required to do men’s work and fashion evolved accordingly. Restrictive corsets, elaborate dresses and dainty shoes were impractical for their new roles, so functional trousers and hard-wearing boots were introduced to women’s wardrobes to reflect their new (albeit not entirely accepted by some) status as a part of the workforce. The exhibition featured both work and civilian dress, memorabilia and propaganda, as well as some absolutely stunning costumes from Downton Abbey. It must be so lovely to be an actor and get to wear all those lovely outfits for work. Sigh.

The exhibition has finished, but no doubt there will be another equally fantastic one to take its place soon – there is also so much to see in the rest of the museum.

Great War in Costume Collage Great War in Costume

We then moved onto the Georgians exhibition, which is running throughout 2014. There is surely no better location for such a display than the Bath Assembly Rooms, where outfits like those on show would have been worn by upper-class folk in polite society during the 18th Century.

One of the most interesting things about the exhibition was seeing how much fashions changed across the time period – just like today, fashions evolved year on year (although obviously nowhere near as quickly as they do now thanks to the likes of Primark et al).

It can be easy to view this time period as all bustles and corsets, but fashionable silhouettes changed significantly over these years – arguably, in fact, in a more noticable way than they do now, as they had all manner of structuring undergarments at their disposal. These included the rather comical panniers, cage supports for extremely wide-skirted court dresses that I think are one of the most impractical items of clothing I’ve ever come across. Many were so wide that the wearer would surely have had to walk through doors sideways – I can’t even imagine what trying to sit down in one of those things would have been like! I also loved the display of Georgian-inspired modern clothes, including a showstopping dress by one of my favourite designers, Vivienne Westwood.

While I won’t be sewing up a super-wide dress any time soon, there was still plenty of dressmaking inspiration to be found – the Georgians certainly knew how to work a floral print and embroidery.

Nearly a year ago (how time flies!) I posted about the Glamour of Bellville Sassoon exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum. Unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to see it, but luckily for me the Bath museum has a smaller version on display at the moment.

The 25 evening dresses on show have been assembled by Mr Sassoon, and each one has been kept across the years by Bellville Sassoon’s clientele and borrowed back especially for the display. The centrepiece of the exhibition is three ensembles worn by Princess Diana, including the going-away outfit worn on her wedding day.

I always look forward to seeing the latest Dress of the Year. In a nod to the ever-increasing influence of fashion bloggers, the 2013 dress was chosen by Susie Bubble. A candy pink number from the Christopher Kane Spring/Summer collection, the dress features a perfectly balanced combination of delicate detailing and edginess.

Susannah Lau said: ‘I chose Christopher Kane’s dress because, to me, he is one of the most exciting and brilliant designers to have emerged from London Fashion Week. He manages to take the most unexpected elements and make them work in collections that then define seasons.  The Spring/Summer 2013 season saw Kane take on Frankenstein –crystals, black gaffer tape and white lace shouldn’t sit well with one another but the juxtaposition somehow come off as harmonious.

To accompany the dress I have also chosen young accessories designers who have also contributed to London ‘s rise – unconventional milliner Nasir Mazhar who has segued into street-inspired ready to wear and quirky shoe designer Sophia Webster.’

As we got a joint ticket for both museums, we also visited the beautiful Roman Baths, which looked simply stunning in the late afternoon light.Roman Baths Summer Evening Roman Baths

April Rhodes Sewing Patterns

April Rhodes Sewing PatternsApril Rhodes Sewing PatternsRiding Peplum & Party Dress

The weather has turned rather autumnal already in the UK, meaning I’m stuck in a mid-season wardrobe quandary – if I layer up, I get hot and flustered within five minutes of leaving the house, but if I head out in just a blouse I end up shivering. Everything in my wardrobe is either too summery and looks wrong with a jacket, or too wintery and hot-flush-inducing. Thus, I am in one of those moods where I hate almost every item in my wardrobe, which I think means it is time to get sewing some new pieces.

There are so many fabulous indie patterns on the market that it can be so hard to choose which to try first, but when I saw these lovely patterns by April Rhodes I knew I had found my next project. April Rhodes Sewing PatternsThe Staple Dress

On her website April says her dream is to make patterns that are simple, quick and easy to sew, which, quite frankly, is music to my ears – at the moment I want to fill my wardrobe with lovely new me-made clothes, so speedy sewing projects are just what I need.

I’m a big fan of the riding peplum and party dress pattern – I love both garments’ modern style, relaxed fit and flattering, body-skimming shape, and the fact they will suit a wide variety of fabrics; the dress could be made with a bright, cheerful print for summer, or in a plain black or navy fabric to wear with a cardi and boots in the autumn and winter.

Now I’ve found some lovely new patterns to work with, I’m rather looking forward to autumn – what are your new-season sewing plans?

Wedding Sewing

When you reach a certain age the wedding invites start rolling in, which is rather exciting for a sewing fan like me – just think of all the pretty dresses to be made! Sewing your own wedding outfit ensures you definitely won’t be in the same dress as anyone else, but it brings with it another problem: choice, choice and more choice. Should I go smart and sophisticated with a plain, block colour, or perhaps cutesy and sweet with a classic summer floral? As with all sewing endeavors, the options are endless, and thus I spent hours and hours browsing fabrics and patterns online for the summer wedding I was invited to this year.

I needed a fabric that would keep me cool during the celebrations, and decided I wanted a print that was at once classic and contemporary. In the end I chose a light faux-linen fabric in a modern floral print from good-old Fabric Land – a bargain at only £4.99 per metre. As luck would have it, I’d just received my copy of Tilly’s fabulous Love at First Stitchthe stylish Megan dress is ideal for such a smart occasion.

TillyMeganDress

The Megan dress was a dream to sew and I didn’t have to make any alterations to the pattern – apart from, as always, to shorten the length. I’ve not sewn many sleeves so I was dreading that part, but Tilly’s clear instructions made it super easy. In fact, the trickiest part was inserting the zip, but that was down to me rather than the pattern. I learnt two important lessons here folks. Firstly, don’t buy cheap zips. Secondly, don’t buy cheap sewing machine feet. I unfortunately did both, which resulted in much unpicking and lots of cursing.

The first zip I bought broke in half after I had attached one side, and I didn’t have much luck with my second attempt with a new zip either – one of the grooves in my cheap, ebay-bought invisible zip foot wasn’t wide enough, which meant my stitches were too close to the zip teeth (despite ironing them flat first) and the zip wouldn’t close. After finally figuring out, two further attempts later, that the other groove on the machine foot was wider and worked fine, the zip was finally in (just two days before the wedding I might add!).

I don’t think I’ve made anything that has fit me as well as this dress (a little too well, perhaps – I must admit I was feeling a little uncomfortable after a three-course meal and a few glasses of fizz). I’ll definitely be wearing this again – for this wedding I paired it with baby-pink shoes from Primark and a vintage silver beaded bag, but I could easily wear it with a black jacket and heels for an autumn/winter wedding.

What will you be making from Tilly’s lovely book? I think I’m going to give the Mimi blouse a go next – watch this space!

Primark Shoes & Vintage Bag

 

Donna Wilson’s New Fabric Collection

Donna WilsonDonna Wilson Fabrics

Moon Cloud Oyster Linen – Sunshine Oyster Linen

I’ve long admired designer Donna Wilson’s quirky homewares, so I couldn’t wait to take a peek at her new collection of ten fabrics. Titled Forest and Friends, the designer’s first ever fabric collection features her signature nature-inspired illustrations. Clouds, trees and raindrops are regular motifs, which is no surprise really considering that Donna grew up on a farm in Aberdeenshire in the north-east of Scotland, where there was no doubt an abundance of all three.

While many of these cheerful fabrics would be more suited to home-decor projects such as cushions and bedding, I could definitely see myself wearing the subtler prints, such as the raindrop and the mushroom & leaves prints pictured below, both of which would be great for a pretty dress or blouse.

In keeping with her commitment to supporting local manufacturing, all the fabrics are printed in the historical silk town of Macclesfield. At £25 per metre, these fabrics cost a little more than I would usually spend on material, but it is certainly worth it for the unique prints and the quality, not to mention the fact that you’ll be doing your bit to support the local manufacturing industry with every metre you buy. Visit the website to see the full collection.

Donna Wilson Fabric

Raindrop Lightweight Cotton – Mushrooms & Leaves Lightweight Cotton

Donna Wilson Fabric

Mountain Home Lightweight Cotton

Spa Day & Tapas at Bristol Lido

Swimmers do leisurely lengths while sunbathers relax on the waterside sipping Prosecco, nibbling tapas and basking in the sunshine; this might sound like a lazy afternoon on a Spanish summer holiday, but it is actually the scene that greeted us when we arrived at the Lido, the renovated Victorian swimming baths tucked away on an unassuming street in the exclusive suburb of Clifton.

We were lucky enough to visit on a gloriously sunny day – I can imagine taking a dip in the outdoor pool isn’t quite so idyllic in the depths of winter, even if it is heated – and took advantage of their Swim, Tapas & Wine package, which included full use of the spa facilities from noon until 3pm, followed by a sumptuous lunch of three tapas dishes and a glass of wine each.

Although there were quite a few ‘serious’ swimmers there (i.e. people there to actually swim rather than splash about aimlessly like us) there was enough space to accommodate those of us who just fancied floating about by the side and chatting as well – we had to book a few weeks in advance, so they obviously limit the numbers to ensure everyone has enough room to fully enjoy the facilities. And enjoy them, we certainly did.

I’d never been in a steam room or sauna before and never really got why people love them so much, but I definitely understand the appeal now. I’ve never felt more relaxed or refreshed, especially after braving the post-sauna ice bucket, which basically involves you voluntarily tipping a bucket of cold water on yourself. It sounds hideous, but it was actually quite addictive and felt rather invigorating after sweating it out in the steam room and sauna.

As if our day of spa-based loveliness wasn’t already enough, we then headed to the restaurant for some delicious tapas and wine. I cynically thought the dishes might be a little on the small side, seeing as they were part of a package, but I couldn’t have been more wrong – portions were ample and bread and olives were even included in the price.

From the wide selection, we plumped for rich and spicy chorizo and morcilla; classic patatas bravas; crisp cabbage and Parmesan salad; tasty Syrian lentils; and succulent wood-roast scallops served in the shell in herb and garlic butter. Even though we’d been at the Lido for about six hours by this point, we decided to stay just a little longer and indulge in coffee and cake too. I wish I could justify spending the money on a Lido membership, but, for now, I’ll settle for the occasional day of indulgence at this urban oasis. 

 

Merchant & Mills Sewing Book

MerchantMills.jpg

If your style is more normcore than girly girl, you might feel like the sewing world doesn’t cater to you – after all, more often than not, sewing boxes and accessories come plastered in Cath Kidston-esque bright floral prints, and many sewing shops stock endless reams of ruffles, sequins and other fussy trims. Sewing books also often go in for this super-feminine style. Not so, however, in the case of this new sewing manual from Merchant & Mills, who sell sewing notions, patterns and fabrics and are known for their stripped-back, utilitarian aesthetic.

This book offers a no-nonsense approach to sewing and is all about celebrating craftmanship and creativity. Carolyn Denham and Roderick Field set up Merchant & Mills in 2010, hoping to, as their website says, ‘elevate sewing to its proper place in the creative world’ and encourage women and men alike to make ‘a clear statement of individuality and experience the satisfaction that comes from making clothes that compete in style and quality with top-end retail, paid for in time more than hard cash.’

Of course, high-end clothes are usually set apart by the details – the flawless darts and tucks, the perfectly matched seams, the flattering fit – and this manual aims to help you achieve this finish at home. As you might expect, then, the level of detail in this book is truly second to none. Without ever being boring or dry (aside from the odd bit of dry humour, that is) it features pretty much everything you need to know about great sewing. From fabrics to stitching styles, fastenings to must-have sewing tools, this manual covers it all.

The book also features 15 projects to get stuck into, ranging in level from nice-and-simple to a bit more advanced – for instance, I’m tempted by the pillow cushion with sweet cotton ties, but might just leave the oilskin shoulder bag until I feel a bit more comfortable sewing with different materials.

One of the main things I took away from this book was the importance of pressing correctly. It can be so easy to concentrate so much on the actual construction of the garment that the finishing touches, like pressing, get forgotten, or are just done as an after-thought. However, this book reiterates that pressing your seams, darts and tucks properly – and this includes not over-pressing, which can distort the fabric – is the key to a professional-looking end product.

I know the phrase gets bandied about a lot when a latest must-have sewing book is released, but this truly is an essential book for all dressmakers of all skill levels.

Men’s Shirt Refashion

One of my favourite parts of the Sewing Bee is the refashioning challenge – making something old into something new and unexpected is a pretty impressive skill, and one that I am yet to master. For my first refashioning project, I kept it simple and decided to turn my boyfriend’s denim shirt into a skirt with an elasticated waist (the shirt was in a bag destined for the charity shop when I nabbed it, just to make that clear – it’s best not to go stealing your other half’s favourite shirts!). Here’s how I did it:

  1. Refashioning a men’s shirt into a skirt is quick and simple, as the main construction has already been done for you (no hemming needed, joy!). If the shirt you’re using doesn’t have pockets, you’re in luck. All you’ll need to do is measure the length you want your skirt to be, from the hem upwards, then add enough at the top to make a waistband – this should be the width of your elastic, plus a 1cm seam allowance – and draw a straight line with tailor’s chalk across the width of the shirt when you’ve measured the correct length to mark your cutting line.
  2. If, however, your shirt has pockets like mine did, you’ll need to unpick these and remove them, as they’ll get in the way of creating your waistband. Once I’d unpicked mine, I noticed the denim underneath the pocket was darker than the rest of the shirt, meaning I’d need to chop more off – if this isn’t the case with yours, then you can just carry on with the measuring and cutting. If you’ve encountered the same problem, however, you might need get be a bit creative and use the rest of the shirt to make a waistband (I’ll come to that later).
  3. Once you’ve cut the unneeded top half of the shirt off, it should start looking a bit more skirt-like. As the shirt I was using was fastened with poppers, and I didn’t want any embarrassing popper-bursting situations, I sewed up the length of the closure – it would probably be worth doing this with a button-up shirt too to avoid it gaping when you sit down.
  4. Now it’s time to create the waistband. Those of you using the simple, turn-down method will need to fold and press 1cm of the top inwards, then fold down the width of the elastic (plus a bit of wiggle room) inwards as well, and topstitch. Make sure you leave a gap of a couple of inches so you can feed your elastic through. In fact, as I’m lazy and I hate fiddly things like this, I left four gaps – at both side seams, and front and back – which made it a lot easier.
  5. If, like me, those pesky pockets mean you can’t create the waistband the aforementioned way, then not to worry, as it’s still super simple – all you need to do is cut the sleeves into four equal pieces to be sewn together to form the waistband. I measured carefully to make sure the seams would match the centre front and back and side seams of the shirt, and sewed all four pieces together to form a loop. Pin this makeshift band to the shirt, right sides together, and sew all the way around. Then rest of the steps are the same as before. See, told you it was easy.
  6. Once you’ve threaded the elastic through, sew the two ends of the elastic together, sew up the gaps you left to thread the elastic through, and voila – your shirt will be reborn as a rather fetching skirt!

Men's Shirt Refashion Skirt

Top Gap Skirt River Island man’s shirt Bag French Connection Locket Disney Couture Shoes Dune Sunglasses Accessorize

Have you ever refashioned a men’s shirt? What did you do with yours? I’d love to hear your ideas!

Chic on a Shoestring by Mary Jane Baxter

Chic on a Shoestring

When I saw the title of this book, I knew I had to have it – I never buy anything full price, am regularly in the charity shops looking for bargains, and don’t usually buy anything I could sew for a cheaper price myself, so I’m always eager to learn more ways to be chic on a shoestring. This is the first book from milliner and maker Mary Jane Baxter, and is full of simple, fun, vintage-inspired projects, peppered by fantastically quirky illustrations by Sam Wilson.

Every turn of the page uncovers a must-try make and lots of inspiration. I’m itching to create the 1950s-paste-jewellery-inspired necklace, the easy slouchy top made from vintage silk scarves (ingenious!) and the cute ribbon corsage. The book also features handy hints and tips on how to hunt down bargains to upcycle and customise. I love how quick and easy the projects are – they’re great for when you don’t have much time for crafting but still want to indulge your creative side. Plus, any book that aims to help me build a fab wardrobe without spending a fortune is a-okay with me.

Chic on a Shoestring Book

Paisley Taffy Blouse

Colette Taffy Blouse

Paisley is most associated – and not always favourably – with the hippies of the 60s and 70s and, I’ll be honest, it’s not really a pattern I’m usually drawn to. However, there was something about this fabric – I just couldn’t leave the shop without it. I think it might be the touches of neon green. Because it’s such a bright print, it’s been in my stash since I bought it in December, but as we’ve had a few sunny spells I thought it was time to start some summer sewing.

I received the Colette Sewing Handbook for Christmas, and decided to give the Taffy blouse a go first. As it was somewhat similar in construction to the sorbetto I was quite comfortable with a lot of the techniques involved. I haven’t, however, ever sewn a sleeve before, despite having quite a few projects under my belt now. Thankfully sewing my first ever sleeves was a fairly pain-free process, so that’s something to check off my list and do more of in future.

Overall, I think this is a great little pattern, especially for a beginner. I only have a couple of gripes – firstly, the size of the sleeves. Now, I know the book says to use a light fabric, and I’ve used a heavier cotton, so this is probably my fault, but the sleeves really are huge! In fact, I’ve had to put a few stitches in at the sides to tame them. If the correct fabric was used though, I’m sure they would be lovely. My second – and final – gripe is the size of the neckline. I have narrow shoulders, so I altered the pattern slightly when I traced it to account for this, but the neckline is still quite wide and does slip down on occasion. Having checked out some of the other Taffys on the blogosphere, it seems this is a common problem, so keep it in mind if you decide to make a Taffy.

I think this top will get lots of wears during the summer – I’m planning on wearing it with a floaty, high-waisted skirt and sandals when (or if) it starts to really hot up.

Colette Sewing Handbook Taffy Blouse

Fabric Fine Fabrics in Taunton Bag Vintage Necklace Mawi at ASOS Sunglasses Accessorize

If you fancy putting your own spin on this 1970s fabric, here are some pretty paisleys to get you started…

Paisley Fabrics

1 Basket Full of Posies from Spoonflower 2 Paisley Elephant Drops from Spoonflower 3 Paisley Print Chiffon from Minerva Crafts 4 Small Paisley from Fabric Rehab 5 Persnickety Paisley from Spoonflower